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Do you know others who are interested in going Chemical-Free?

FAQ

What is it?

A molasses based product, handed down through the family for generations. Contains no chemical. Has a blend of fermented sugars and grains as well as a number of natural products for extra nutrients

How does it work?

The principal is to feed the soil (bacteria in the soil), healthy soil gives a healthy plant, and a healthy plant is more heat tolerant, disease and insect resistant.

What is the difference between liquid and dry? Should I use them both?

The liquid is applied as a foliar feed. This immediately gives nutrients to the plant as well as feeding the bacteria in the soil.

The Dry Product is a slow release product that needs water to activate it. It has everything that the liquid has PLUS other natural grains including seaweeds, alfalfa etc. made into a pellet mix for easy handling. It is an added benefit to use both; the bacteria are continuously feeding and multiplying to keep your plants healthy.

They can be used separately or in combination.

What do I do with the product left over from last year?

You have already paid for this product so you may as well use it. What I would suggest is use it at a much reduced rate along with our product. The bacteria will help to break it down faster and the extra bacteria action will help keep your plants healthier.

Is your product Natural Or Organic

Our governments have decided that because we use molasses in our product and because molasses goes through a heat process, it can no longer be considered Natural or Organic. The same process can no longer consider Maple Syrup Natural or Organic.

Does it kill weeds?

It is not a weed killer. This is not chemical. What our product does, is to assist in bringing the soil into balance. If your soil is in balance, many weeds will not grow. Nature only grows a plant (weed) that is highest in what the soil is lacking. An example of this is the dandelion. This plant is high in calcium, if you put extra calcium on your soil, dandelions will slowly be eliminated.

Does it eliminate clover?

Clover is not a weed. The only people that are telling you that it is a weed are the chemical companies. It is easier and cheaper for them to educate you that clover is a weed than to make a herbicide that will not harm clover. Clover is a deep-rooted plant that survives well in drought areas, and indirectly assists other plants and grasses. Clover assists with nitrogen and moisture for the surrounding plants. (There are 50 different varieties of clover sold as seed)

I am on sandy soil. Nothing seems to help. What will your product do?

Sandy or clay soils need extra calcium to knit other nutrients in the soil. Deficiencies show up most often on sandy soils, low in organic matter in areas of moderate to heavy rainfall. In terms of its use as a soil conditioner, calcium has been shown to displace exchangeable sodium from the cation exchange sites of soils high in sodium. With irrigation or dry land, this type of fertilizer may be used to reclaim saline areas, soften and crumble crusted soils, and improve infiltration for some puddled soils. Calcium, an essential part of plant cell wall structure, provides for normal transport and retention of other elements as well as strength in the plant. Calcium is as essential to the plant as bone is to the body. In my opinion.

What about over-spray?

Because there is no chemical, when we spray a lawn we spray the lawn, the flowers, the shrubs and the trees. If there is any over-spray it will only benefit the other area. There should be NO detrimental effect.

Do you spray for Grubs?

No! Insects will not attack a healthy plant. When the June bug lays her eggs she can tell by taste or smell the amount of sugar in the plant (the more sugar the healthier plant) if there is too much sugar, she will not lay her eggs. We have found where we have sprayed; there is no sign of grubs.

Skunks and Racoons do not have x-ray vision, they smell or taste the grass - if very little sugar, or dead areas, they know there will be food.

How often should I spray?

We recommend a heavier feed spring and fall, and, at least 2 light feedings through the year. Optimum of course is a light feeding once a month. This is reduced after a few years to a light feeding a couple times a year.

When is the best time to spray?

Because we use no chemicals, any time is a good time. (We do not recommend a spray during a drought.) As early in spring as you can get on and as late in the fall as you can. Before, during or after a rain is no problem.

Will I notice results right away?

Our program does not always give immediate visible results. The results happen in the soil. We create an environment for bacteria, the environment that has been reduced primarily by chemical use.

If you want to have an immediate green lush looking lawn, our program is not for you. It will not happen overnight, (your lawn did not get to its present state overnight)

If you are willing to wait to have a healthy, long lasting, chemical free, green lawn it will take time, but it will happen.

What is your "Lawn Care Program?"

Liquid… In the spring a heavy liquid feeding, several light feedings throughout the summer, followed by another heavy feeding in the fall.

Dry… A heavy feeding in the spring, followed by another heavy feeding in the fall. This is a slow release product.

We can combine the two formulas, which, which will assist in building soil health and humus in the soil.

We can supply you with product so you can do it yourself or we can do it for you.

Does your program include cutting planting, landscaping etc?

Yes. However, a lot of the extras if we feel, we are not qualified to handle; we will contract out if, mutual consent is established.

Can I use your product if I have already used chemicals?

Certainly! In most cases chemicals have already destroyed some bacteria. All our product does is feed the existing bacteria. The more bacteria you feed, the more bacteria they create, the more bacteria they create the more they breakdown what is in and on the soil. Healthy soil creates healthy plants. Thus starting to turn things around to a chemical free environment. A slow start is better than no start.

If I use your product, do I still have to fertilize?

I will not make the claim that our product will take the place of fertilizer for your situation. Based on my experience I will say we have had successful results. We have used it solely and successfully since 1975. We have a small acreage we grew our own feed and raised cattle and horses. Later, a Market Garden and now a Driving Range and Mini Golf on grass. This product is all we have and will use.

What kind of results can I expect on agricultural crops?

Based on our past experience, with the use of a refractometer the brix reading has risen considerably. Subsequent testing has determined that the digestible protein content has risen considerably. In essence this has produced better quality food not necessarily better quantity.

If I spray this on my lawn, what happens if I get some on my flowers?

When we spray lawns, we make it a point to spray the flowers, bushes, trees etc. The Natural Way product is meant to be used on whatever grows. Your flowers will pop!

I have a Birch tree on my front lawn that looks like it's dying. Will your product work on this?
The Natural Way Liquid Formula is not a miracle product. If you are willing to try, let me make a suggestion. At the drip line around the tree, make 1" to 2" approx. 4" deep core holes about 12" apart. Mix a 25/75 solution with water and fill the holes, then put the core back in. this can be done before, after or during a rain, or when it's dry. This should help.

Can I use your product along with sprays on a golf course?

You don't say what sprays. The answer is yes. Let me clarify this. This is our finding.

Think of what the chemical boys are saying. First think back to some of the laws or rules of chemistry physics whatever from high school…the energy must be stacked. The lowest form of energy will accept a higher form .. the higher form will not accept the lower form.

A vat of acid will not accept or mix with water, the water burns off. But reverse this .. a vat of water will accept acid and it will mix and all become acid. So! When you mix your herbicide pesticide or what have you as recommended fill your tank (sprayer) half full of water, then add the chemical this all becomes chemical. Why then would they recommend to fill the rest of the tank with water??? Think!

If you were to stack the energy .. lowest first .. then next .. then next you may end up with something like this Water - wetting agent - vinegar (to lower pH) - The Natural Way Liquid - then your herbicide or pesticide. BUT, because you have stacked the energy you can cut back on said herbicide or pesticide by at least 25 to 50%. By stacking energy you have made this product more effective. By using our product along with this you assist the bacteria and cause less stress on the plant.

How does this stuff work on my specialty grow, you know for medicinal purposes?

I can only pass on what I was told. "Big plants, no chemical taste and the stuff works great!"

If I go chemical free, don't I end up spending more time and money, working on my lawn?

There are different kinds of work

Chemical Free lawn care is more than the absence of chemicals. It is a process that combines safe and nutritive product inputs and effective maintenance techniques. Creating fertile soil and naturally resistant grass takes some time, but it is well worth the wait. The results are a healthy and sustainable landscape.

Mowing is mowing - you're going to do that no matter what kind of lawn you have. With a thicker, healthier Chemical Free lawn you might have to mow one or two extra times a season because your lawn will be growing better. It is usually cheaper to have a Chemical Free lawn. Chemical Free lawns The Natural Way can be weed free and thick and green They can be better than a chemical lawn.

Across the board Chemical Free lawn practices The Natural Way can produce an excellent method of control with less cost. You're not going to be chained to the lawn. Quite the contrary, successful Chemical Free lawns are designed to work with nature instead of against nature

Mother Nature Never Breaks Her Own Rules!

 
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